Grand Funny Pompous Elegant

Text: Fashion of the Baroque Era

The artist Michelangelo is often credited with fathering the baroque style of art and architecture. During this era the continuous straight lines of the Renaissance gave way to intricate curves. The whirling motion of the baroque style was particularly striking in men’s dress. Lace and ribbon were used unsparingly to decorate men’s costumes in the early part of the era. They were especially evident in military dress – on the cuffs, the collar, and the wide sash that was tied around the waist. Typical menswear during the mid-17^th century consisted of a vestlike doublet with elbow-length sleeves. The doublet was worn over a shirt whose sleeves extended below those of the doublet. Breeches with wide legs hung to the knees and were trimmed with as much as 140 yards of silk ribbon.

During the late 17^th century the long jacket appeared. Although at first cut rather loosely, it was soon fitted more closely to the body. The doublet was lengthened to become a knee-length waistcoat. Narrow breeches replaced the wide kind that had been worn earlier. A cravat made of lace or lace-edged linen was tied at the neck. From that time on, the necktie has played an important role in menswear.

The baroque wig best exemplified the prevailing quest for ornamentation and dignity. Toward the end the17th century, false hair became more popular than natural hair. Men’s wigs were usually brown or black and fell over the shoulders in unruly masses of curls, often reaching to the waist in back. Women’s coiffures were styled similarly but were even more elaborate. The hair on the crown of the wig was arranged in a high headdress that resembled a row of organ pipes, and curls fell over forehead. The back of the head supported a starched lace cap.

The headdress was supposed to help create a long, slender silhouette. Other devices included the tight corset, which held the body rigid, and the train. The restraints imposed by both were well suited the formality of lifeduring the baroque era.

The 18^th Century

The baroque tradition of dress reached its culmination in France during the mid 18^th century. The discovery of Chinese art by the West led to a preoccupation with delicate ornamentation and decoration. Chinese motifs, such as bellflowers and canopies, appeared as decorative touches on gowns. Soft pastel colors were borrowed from Chinese paintings for use in men’s and women’s garments.

The dress worn by both men and women was directed toward establishing a conelike silhouette. Women’s tightly corseted torsos terminated in huge skirts that, though failing straight at the front and back, were extended at the sides so that at the hem they were up to 12 feet across. These great skirts forced the ladies of the day to pass sideways through most doorways. Men’s coats and waistcoats were narrow at the shoulders and hem out from the body.

Men, as well as women, used cosmetics heavily during the mid-18^th century. The effect was not a natural one, however, as complexions were made to resemble porcelain. The face was stark white, with lips of bright red.